My eldest, who will soon be 14, is a big Legend of Zelda fan. A few weeks ago, I found some awesome Majora’s Mask fabric at Dressew, and bought a metre of it on a whim. I figured I’d eventually decide what to make with it.
Eldest is going for a sleepover tonight, and needs to bring a pillow, so I figured why not make a pillowcase? I whipped it up yesterday, in about an hour. When I make pillowcases, I base them on the measurements and techniques from the One Million Pillowcase project, and use this pattern from All People Quilt. I modify the pattern a little. In this case, I cut a 3″ wide strip of green broadcloth and pressed it lengthwise in half to make an accent strip between the printed fabric and the plain black fabric. When you prepare the opening, just baste this strip to the edge before sewing the loop. Easy as pie! I also had to make it a little smaller than the pattern tells you to, because my green fabric was 1″ too short and I didn’t want seams in it. The joys of sewing from your stash and using up leftovers!
Kid likes the pillowcase, I got to use up some stash fabric, and I’m a happy mum. I’m hoping to find some kind of awesome must-have fabric to make a fun pillowcase for the boy at some point, but nothing has caught my eye.
I haven’t updated in a while. Been meaning to do that, since I’ve got several things to share, but I haven’t felt like writing. I’m here now though, because I’m excited and wanted to share.
As anyone who reads this blog knows, I’ve been complaining for a while that my jeans don’t fit properly. I’ve tried different brands, in different styles, supposedly intended for different body types. I already know that I can’t wear skinny jeans, because thanks to the amount of walking I do, I’ve got pretty muscular calves, and there’s no way I’m getting skinny jeans over those suckers. I live on a hill, and of course, everywhere I go is uphill from home, so I’ve got muscular thighs too.
So-called “curvy” jeans are a joke, because they’re supposed to fit women with a larger hip to waist ratio than a standard fit, but guess what? These are curvy fit jeans.
Look at that gap! It is pretty significant, and causes no end of discomfort. Why? If I don’t wear a belt, my jeans constantly fall down, and I’m always grabbing my belt loops to hike them back up, only to have to repeat the process thirty seconds later. Yes, I could wear a belt, but they’re terribly uncomfortable after a while, because my jeans still want to fall down (they seem to get hung up on my calves), so the belt ends up digging in at the top of my hips. I’ve tried higher rises, but I really don’t like them. These jeans are a mid-rise. And they look nice, so it seems like a huge shame to get rid of them when I know that every other pair of jeans I try will result in the same fit problem.
For the record, my hip to waist ratio is not huge. It’s only 8″, but the combination of having to fit my muscular legs plus the hip/waist ratio means I have to buy jeans a little big to fit all of that.
I tried this tutorial, because it looked really helpful, and it was AMAZING. I tried it first on a pair of Gap boyfriend jeans that are great for springtime, but have such a huge waist gap that I can take them off without unbuttoning them (they are almost too small for my calves though). I figured that if it didn’t work, I wouldn’t be too heartbroken. Guess what though? Now they’re the best fitting jeans I’ve ever owned.
Until today, when I altered my Silver Suki jeans. They’re even better than my Gap jeans.
See that? The gap is gone. Waistband alterations are life changing, I tell you. I used to hate wearing jeans (I love the look, but they’re uncomfortable when they don’t fit properly). Now I love my jeans.
They look a little tight above the waistband, but that’s because I’m squishy. They’re very comfortable, and don’t dig in.
The topstitching thread was hard to match, because you can’t buy this shade locally. I’ve looked, and my options are white, two shades of gold, and navy. Fortunately, I was able to find a greyish brown and a pale golden yellow thread that, together, are pretty darned close. You really have to look closely to see that the thread is different, and if you’re that close to my backside, we’re going to have a very interesting conversation. I have two pair of these jeans, and it took me about an hour and a half to do the alteration on the first pair. I took in the waist 4″. Crazy, right? They just look and feel so much better now.
The only issue is that they’re a bit hard to get over my hips now, because the waist is so much smaller, but I did the alteration on jeans that were fresh out of the wash. After wearing, they stretch out a little, so it’ll be easier. Even if they didn’t stretch, it’s not that big of a deal. I just need to wiggle a little.
If you don’t have the skills or tools to do this yourself, definitely ask around, because properly fitting jeans are something beautiful. Heck, if you’re local and I like you enough, I might even do it for you.
I found these great fabrics on sale at Fabricland in the fall, and knew they’d be perfect for Oakridge blouses. I already have two with the bow, so I decided to make things easier on myself and do the version without the bow.
This first one is quite possibly my favourite, because the fabric is so unique. It reminds me of a Monet painting, specifically Waterlilies. You got your first peek at this fabric when I posted my machine sewn button tutorial. Excuse the creases in my skirt, I wore this outfit for a job interview this morning. Wish me luck!
I loved this fabric too, because it is so difficult to find autumn colours. I love orange, and I thought I’d never say that. I still remember the adorable peach dress I had in eighth grade. It suited me really well, except for the colour, which was far too light for my complexion, and resulted in me looking pallid and ill. I generally prefer reddish or rusty oranges, and this fabric has both. I loved that the dots are random and imperfect.
This is the final blouse. Remember that I said a while back that when I find a pattern that I like, I tend to make several garments all the same?
I didn’t need to make any adjustments to the pattern, since I’ve already sewn it twice before. I did, however, use some cotton lawn for the bias binding at the neckline instead of cutting a bias strip out of my fashion fabric. The reason I chose to do so was that fussing with a skinny bias strip in a slippery fabric felt like torture to me. Because I skipped the bias strip, I have quite a bit of fabric left over, so I plan on making myself some Colette Sorbetto tanks, which I can wear with sweaters or blazers. Thus far, I’ve only made them out of cotton.
I’m pretty pleased with my new blouses, and my work wardrobe is really coming together. Now I just need a job!
Well, I’ve been avoiding posting this one because I was so excited about the pattern and my dress really didn’t work out very well. I’m just going to get this done and over with…
It looks more or less okay from the front, I suppose. There are definitely issues though.
The neckline is way too high for me. I don’t like a neckline that comes higher than my collarbones, even if it’s a t-shirt. Why? Because I’m rather well-endowed, all that fabric just makes my bust look even bigger. There’s nothing to break it up. Maybe some chunky jewelry would help, but that’s not my style. The neckline needs to be lowered about 2″ in the front, and 1″ at the back, because it’s just a wee bit high for me there too.
The fit in the waist is good. The fit in the bust is good. The fit in the hips is okay. The fit across my tummy is terrible. This is more apparent from the side.
Look at those drag lines! I have a bit of a tummy pouch, and that’s what is causing them. I blame my kids, but really, I need to exercise more and it would be less of a problem. There’s not a whole lot of room in this dress for my tummy. Because my tummy is bigger than this dress can comfortably accommodate, it is pushing up the waistline, causing weird wrinkles below the bust.
I don’t want to have to wear spanx, which might help somewhat, but I don’t honestly find them all that helpful. They do smooth out lumps and bumps, but they give me a sausage silhouette, which isn’t much better than lumps and bumps.
I’m not sure I’ll try making this dress again. It just needs too many modifications in order to work. I love the idea of sheath dresses, but with my tummy, I’m not sure they’re the most flattering on me. I’ll try this one again someday, after I get my tummy under control, but in the meantime, I have fabric for four more of them that I need to find other uses for.
Not every project can be a success, and this one definitely was not one of them. I’ll keep it on hand, just so that I don’t have to sew it again later if/when my belly is less pouchy, but this definitely is not a wearable dress.
The other fabrics I purchased are fine wale corduroy and lightweight suiting. There’s definitely enough for either pants and skirts, or dresses. I’m inclined to go for dresses, but I need to find the right pattern. I thought about the Sewaholic Cambie as an option, but it isn’t going to be suitable for the corduroy. I made one out of quilting cotton a while back.
I came across this blog post from Sewaholic, and love the finished dress, but Tasia’s body type is very different from my own. I’d end up with the same issue with the neckline being too high. I don’t like the back either, but the front is nice.
This might be a good option, because of the neckline variations. I find it frustrating that the pattern companies don’t list everything that is in the catalog on their websites though. I’d rather go through the patterns at home, then make a trip to the fabric store. Sadly, I don’t have anything in my collection of patterns that would be suitable.
Would you believe I made another one? I went to Dressew for notions, and meandered around the fabrics, because you never know what amazing things you’ll find. Lo and behold, I found this gorgeous black and red damask knit, which had to come home with me.
Laying it out was a bit tricky, since I wanted to be sure that everything was lined up perfectly. To do this, instead of laying out on the fold, I traced around half of my pattern pieces with chalk, then flipped the pattern over and traced around the other side with chalk, and cut along the chalk lines. I did the same for the outside waistband pieces. I didn’t have to do the back this way, because it has a seam down the centre, and I didn’t care how perfectly spaced the damask pattern was on the inside.
Hooray for pretty, comfortable clothes! It’s pretty comfortable, too!
I’m sick of jeans that don’t fit comfortably. The rise is always too low, and I’m always having to either wear a belt (which is uncomfortable) or pull my pants up every few minutes (also uncomfortable, and not very convenient). In the case of the one pair with a nice, just below the navel rise, the fabric doesn’t have enough memory (2% spandex simply is not enough), so they stretch out of shape after an hour or so, which results in needing to pull my jeans up constantly. No thank you.
I am eventually going to get around to making myself a pair or two of jeans that actually fit, but that’s going to be quite a project, so in the meantime, because pants are STUPID, I have made myself some comfortable skirts that I can wear with tights.
I thought about drafting a pattern, however as my eldest would say, “it would be easy…but, lazy”. I decided to go with the Colette Mabel skirt pattern, with a minor modification… I don’t like my skirts super short, so I added 3″ to the length of the mini skirt. I don’t usually sew with knits, which meant I had very little in my stash, so I had to go to the fabric store. I found two fabrics that I liked, which will go with everything… One was a solid black knit, and the other was a heathered charcoal colour.
After taking my measurements, I determined that I landed exactly in the range for the large size. I made the black skirt first. First lesson with this pattern is that it doesn’t have standard 5/8″ seam allowances, so my usual habit of snipping my notches into the seam allowance meant that I had some fussing to do at the notches, since I snipped too far and ended up with tiny holes everywhere there was a notch. Doing notches this way makes cutting your fabric go much faster, but the time I spent fiddling with the stitching negates any time I saved cutting. Lesson learned: read the instructions before cutting, in case the seam allowances are not standard.
I didn’t feel like making the charcoal right away, so I nabbed this funky, retro heathered print from my stash. I bought it at Dressew a few months ago, from the clearance section. I think it was only $2 per meter, and I couldn’t resist it. I figured if I hated it as a skirt, I could donate it to charity without feeling like it was money wasted. In the end, I rather like it, so long as I balance it with dark tights and a dark top.
After actually wearing the two skirts, I decided that the large was just a touch too big, so I trimmed the pattern down to the medium size and cut the charcoal fabric. The fit is much better, and after making two skirts already, I didn’t need to refer back to the instructions, and I had all of the bugs worked out.
Because my black and charcoal fabrics were 60″ wide, there was quite a bit left over. Not enough for another skirt, but there was plenty to make a colour block skirt! I redrafted the back piece, and cut the centre pieces as well as the waistband out of the charcoal, and the side pieces in black. Talk about making the most of your yardage!
The last two skirts were done assembly-line style, because I could use the same thread for both. It only took me about an hour and a half to make the two, plus cutting time.
As a bonus, I scored on sweater tights at The Bay this week, because they’re clearing them out for the season, so I have plenty of options for comfy tights to wear with my comfy skirts! It was fairly inexpensive too. I spent only about $15 CAD on fabric for four skirts. The pattern is a bit pricey considering that the Canadian dollar is so low, but because I can as many skirts as I want, I think in the end it is money well spent.
I have a confession to make. I’ve always looked at the button foot my machine came with and thought “this thing is more trouble than it’s worth, I’ll just sew on buttons by hand”. I finished a blouse recently, and didn’t feel like sewing the buttons on by hand. It is one of those finishing things that I detest. Hand sewing is a big pain, even though I enjoy cross stitching. Go figure.
Anyway, I decided to write up a little tutorial, considering that I know people who have the same opinion on button feet that I did.
First, mark your button placement. I like to make sure that my chalk lines extend past the edges of the button so that I can make adjustments to the position and still be able to see my markings. I don’t like to mark button placement with a pin, because it creates a bump under the button that makes getting the button in the right position really frustrating.
Attach your button foot to your machine, lower the feed dogs, and select the button setting. Make sure that you have about 3″ of thread tail, because you’ll need it later. Place your button on the location you marked, lower the foot, then use the hand wheel on your machine to lower the needle into the hole.
Adjust the stitch width. Buttons have the holes spaced at different widths, so you’ll have to play with this setting. I find that on the buttons I’ve been using, I have to make the zigzag wider.
It turns out that on this button, I set it a touch too wide. Fortunately I didn’t bend or break my needle, but I did break the button. Oops. This is why it’s best to do the first few stitches using the hand wheel instead of running the machine. You can make further adjustments if needed, without doing damage.
I adjusted the stitch width to 5.5, which was perfect. My machine has an automatic setting for sewing on buttons, which takes eight stitches to sew on the button. I just press the pedal until the machine stops automatically, but if your machine doesn’t have an automatic stop, make sure that you use about 6-8 stitches. Cut the thread tails at about 3″.
After your buttons are all sewn on, pull the thread tails on the top of your work (where the button is visible) to the back. Tie the tails in a knot, including the tails on the back of the button, and snip off the excess thread.
Using a button foot makes sewing on buttons go much faster. Rather than hand sewing them and cursing at tangled thread for twenty minutes, I got seven buttons sewn on in about seven minutes, so I have no excuse to let a project sit because I don’t want to sew on buttons.
You can use this technique with buttons with four holes as well, just sew the first two holes, then move the work to line up the needle for the second set of holes. Easy!
If you’re using very large buttons that your machine can’t accommodate, obviously you will have to sew on your buttons by hand. The button foot doesn’t work for buttons with a shank, either. If you have really expensive or delicate buttons, you might want to sew them on by hand, just in case you mess up like I did above.
I haven’t been posting much lately, because I’ve been busy with job interviews, holiday stuff, and making things. I did say I’d be posting a few projects though, and here they are!
Rock the Lobster is the first project I’ll show you, because it was a milestone. I finally made a steeked sweater! If you’re not a knitter, you probably don’t know what steeking is. If you are a knitter, you may have been avoiding steeking, because it involves cutting your knitting! Tackling this technique was a game changer for me. I love colourwork, but most colourwork sweaters are knit in the round and steeked, so I avoided them like the plague.
Steeking looks scary, right? The trick is to use a yarn that will felt, so that the stitches stick to each other. You can also run a line of machine or hand stitches along the steek so that you prevent raveling, which is what I did. Knits generally don’t unravel side to side, so steeking is pretty safe, believe it or not.
The finished sweater. I really love it – the yarn is Knit Picks Wool of the Andes sport, so it’s warm but not too warm. The buttons are fantastic – they’re made of wood with a little bronze wire accent. I bought extra buttons because I liked them so much. I didn’t bother doing any bust shaping, and probably should have. This sweater doesn’t have any waist shaping, but it doesn’t really need it. My Ravelry project page is here.
The first time I wore my new sweater was out to brunch with my husband’s hiking friends. I wore it with a chocolate brown wool pencil skirt. Yes, it’s the pleated pencil skirt again, and I skipped the lining. I don’t really think it needs the lining, if you use good fabric.
Sorry this one is so poor quality, but it was the best photo I got that day, and ran out of time, because I was dressed for an interview and had to leave! It’s another pleated pencil skirt, this time in an olive green wool. Now I have three pencil skirts, which is pretty reasonable, I think. The brown and olive wool were both purchased at Dressew. I still want to make my poppy skirt, but haven’t started yet.
So, I was going to try a different pattern for my next pencil skirt, but have found that most of the PDF patterns I like are either really expensive (I don’t much like the idea of spending almost $20 for a pattern that doesn’t even have variations) or print on A4 paper. I bought a Burdastyle pattern for $5, which I printed on letter size paper, having set my printer to adjust for the paper size, but it was cut off, so I know the skirt wouldn’t fit. It’s very frustrating.
Rather than go out and buy yet another skirt pattern, I’m going to make the pleated pencil skirt again… but this time, I’m going to skip the lining. Hopefully I’ll have better luck than I did with the last one. I have fabric for three new skirts, but I’m only going to cut one for now, in case I decide that I hate the pattern. It does make a nice skirt, when you get the measurements correct. I do find that there’s a bit more ease in the pattern than is really necessary though, so if you make this skirt, you might want to account for that.
I also have decided on which fabric to use for my Phoebe dress, which I am hoping to make on Monday. I have decided on skirts today, because they’re a bit more versatile than dresses, and I’ve got a busy weekend, otherwise I’d sew it up sooner.
There are a few knitting projects that I need to post as well – a sweater and two shawls. I’ll get to those soon. It’s getting more difficult to get photographs of my large knits, because the weather has been bad on weekends, and my husband gets home after dark on work days. There just isn’t enough space in our apartment to take pictures of a shawl with a span of more than five feet, since there always seems to be furniture in the way.
I haven’t sewn many Collette patterns yet, but when I got an email about their new Phoebe dress, I had to snap it up. I’ve been looking for the perfect shift dress, and this is about as perfect as it gets! I love the styling options, and the fact that this dress has a lined bodice. I can’t stand facings, personally, and would prefer to fuss with lining if it means that I don’t have to worry about facings popping out (which they always seem to do).
Phoebe is on sale until December 23, so now is a good time to snap it up! It would make a great holiday dress… It’s easy to dress up or down, in fact. I’m envisioning the double breasted version in a nice lightweight tweed, and the regular version in a nice wool… I even have fabric that would be suitable. It’s a classic design that is very wearable, and I can’t wait to sew one up.