I found these great fabrics on sale at Fabricland in the fall, and knew they’d be perfect for Oakridge blouses. I already have two with the bow, so I decided to make things easier on myself and do the version without the bow.
This first one is quite possibly my favourite, because the fabric is so unique. It reminds me of a Monet painting, specifically Waterlilies. You got your first peek at this fabric when I posted my machine sewn button tutorial. Excuse the creases in my skirt, I wore this outfit for a job interview this morning. Wish me luck!
I loved this fabric too, because it is so difficult to find autumn colours. I love orange, and I thought I’d never say that. I still remember the adorable peach dress I had in eighth grade. It suited me really well, except for the colour, which was far too light for my complexion, and resulted in me looking pallid and ill. I generally prefer reddish or rusty oranges, and this fabric has both. I loved that the dots are random and imperfect.
This is the final blouse. Remember that I said a while back that when I find a pattern that I like, I tend to make several garments all the same?
I didn’t need to make any adjustments to the pattern, since I’ve already sewn it twice before. I did, however, use some cotton lawn for the bias binding at the neckline instead of cutting a bias strip out of my fashion fabric. The reason I chose to do so was that fussing with a skinny bias strip in a slippery fabric felt like torture to me. Because I skipped the bias strip, I have quite a bit of fabric left over, so I plan on making myself some Colette Sorbetto tanks, which I can wear with sweaters or blazers. Thus far, I’ve only made them out of cotton.
I’m pretty pleased with my new blouses, and my work wardrobe is really coming together. Now I just need a job!
I finished my Minoru jacket last week, and have worn it every day since completing it. It has been difficult to get pictures of it though, given that it is dark by the time my husband gets home from work, so we took advantage of this morning’s beautiful weather to walk the dog near the river and get pictures of my jacket.
I didn’t change anything about finishing the jacket, other than making the interior pocket an inch deeper, to accommodate my phone, and serging the raw edges inside the collar, as the edges remain exposed inside of the collar and I didn’t want them to fray over time.
I’m quite pleased with the finished jacket, and wore it for the first time last Friday. It’s a very comfortable jacket – it doesn’t bind at the arms, it’s roomy enough in the bust, and has a really flattering silhouette. It even saw rain on Saturday, and I stayed nice and dry. There’s also plenty of room to wear my down underlayer with it in the winter, so there’s no need to buy a separate winter coat this year.
Would I make this jacket again? Absolutely. I think it makes a fantastic all-purpose jacket. It’s sporty enough for walking the dog and light hiking, but stylish enough to wear around the city or on your daily commute.
There are a few things that I’d do differently next time, however. The side seam pockets are a little too far to the back, thanks to the elastic at the waist, which pulls them away from the front. On my next Minoru, I’ll take the time to do the welt pockets I discussed previously but decided not to do.
The hood is really big. In fact, I don’t like it all that much. I’d make a different style of hood altogether the next time I make this jacket. The hood has a seam down the center, but I find that a hood that has three pieces fits better, and I’d draft my own hood in that style the next time around.
I’d also consider doing a tie belt next time I make this jacket, instead of the elastic waist. It gives you a bit more comfort when switching warm layers underneath the jacket, as it might be a touch snug with my heavier down layer.
Much as the elastic cuffs were a pain in the rear end, I’d leave them as is, because they look nice, and are comfortable to wear.
My pockets need some tweaking, as every time I take my hands out of them, the pocket lining pops out. Tacking them to the hem of the jacket will fix that problem though. I also didn’t make the bottom outside seam high enough when I sewed them, as the pockets aren’t really a secure spot to keep things. When I crouch to pick up after my dog, sometimes stuff falls out of my pocket (such as my phone, the day I didn’t put it back in the interior pocket).
I’m pretty happy with this jacket, considering it was my first time sewing this type of outerwear. Am I 100% happy? No, but I’d say I’m 90% happy, which is more than I can say for anything I’d buy off the rack! I’ll get a lot of use out of this jacket, and when it is time, I’ll definitely make another.
First, I measured the width of the marked area, which is 2 1/4″. The elastic is 2″, so this doesn’t give much room for error. Next, I measured the length of the marked area, which on the size 16 is 33″ from end to end. I decided to use the knitted mesh that I used for my pockets, so that I wouldn’t have added bulk because of folding over raw edges. I cut a piece that was 33″ long by 2 3/4″ wide. This gives you 1/4″ on either side as a seam allowance.
Next, you need to pin it along the marked line where the waist elastic will go. Pin ON the line, rather than across it. This will prevent extra pin holes in your fabric that will require sealing later. Sew into place along the marked lines. If you’re using a stretchy fabric like I am, feel free to stretch it a little as you sew. You’re putting elastic in the casing, and stretching it a bit will cut down on the bulk when you’re done. I ended up with a little extra at the ends, which I’ll trim off.
If you have seam tape, use it to seal your casing seams. I am nearly out, so I’m using liquid seam sealant. I’m saving the last piece of tape for the zipper. The inside isn’t pretty, but it will be hidden by the lining, so I honestly don’t care.
When you reach the point where you insert the elastic, you’ll have to remember to seal the ends after you pull the elastic to fit your waist. You don’t need to do this part quite yet though.
After the waist casing was finished, I started on my zipper. I did everything according to the directions in the sewalong.
I also followed the instructions for the sewalong when I attached the cuffs. I must have stabbed myself at least a dozen times on this step, because the elastic is so stiff and hard to work with. There MUST be a better way to attach them than the way it’s done in the sewalong step, because this was the least enjoyable part of constructing the jacket so far. In the end, I cut my elastic at 10″ instead of 11″, which is what the pattern called for, because that would have made the cuffs too loose. I’m happy with how the cuffs look, but they were a huge pain to sew. On future jackets, I might try doing a different cuff, because I have no desire to ever do this to myself again. Granted, the stiffness of my fabric contributed to the difficulty I had, but I don’t think they’d be trouble-free in a lighter fabric either.
There’s a rainfall warning for today – we’re expecting 50-70mm of rain in the city. What a perfect day to spend inside, sewing a rain jacket! I’m excited, because today I get to start making it look like a jacket! First, I had to sew the collar to the neckline of the jacket. Remember my comments on using heavier thread to do the gathering stitches? It won’t gather at all, because of the rubbery backing on the fabric. I ended up doing small pleats instead, facing the shoulder seams, which is better anyway, because they’re not as bulky as gathers. The nice thing is that because this reduces the bulk, I was able to seam seal the collar after topstitching. Look at that nice zipper with its reflective tape! Fancy!
I had to stray from the sewalong again, because I am adding pockets. I decided not to do welt pockets, because of the placement of the waist gathers. Therefore, I used the tutorial that Tasia linked to here. No pictures, as that’s all covered in the tutorial. I did, however, make my pockets a little deeper than the tutorial.
Once I’d finished the side seams, I sealed the sleeve seams, but since I was starting to run short on seam tape, I didn’t seal the body side seams. I topstitched the side seams, but not the underarm seams, because the stiffness of the fabric would have made it really difficult. I’ll use liquid seam sealer on the body side seams. I trimmed all of the seams to 1/4″ before sealing.
My next post will detail how I will make the casing for the elastic, since I don’t plan on following the pattern instructions for that step. I can’t do anything else on the outer jacket right now, because my liquid seam sealer needs at least 8 hours to cure, so I’m going to sew the lining and baste the remaining reflective tape to the front zipper.
My husband took the boy to swimming lessons after dinner, so I got back to work on my Minoru! The next step is the zipper in the collar. I’ve done zippers like this in bags before, so I knew the technique, but for those of you who aren’t familiar, Tasia’s instructions are very good. This is another instance of having to divert from the instructions because of the nature of my fabric. The instructions tell you to pin horizontally along the stitching lines (marked in red) but I’m trying to avoid making extra holes in my fabric, so I pinned inside the lines, since that section will be folded inside.
Stitch around the marked lines. TAKE YOUR TIME. This opening should be as even and straight as possible, becasuse you’re going to see any mistakes that you make. In my case, I reduced the speed on my machine, so that I wasn’t tempted to rush through it. My fabric is really unforgiving, so it’s better to take it slow. Make sure to use a shorter stitch length at the corners. This reduces the chance of fraying when you snip into the corners. When you cut down the middle of the channel you sewed, try to cut as close to the center as possible. It’ll make pressing it later easier, and reduce wonkiness at the opening. You want to make sure that everything is as straight and even as possible. Stop about 1/4″ from the end, then snip diagonally into the corner as far as you can, making certain not to snip through your stitching. If you don’t snip far enough, the outside will pucker. The opening is curved to match the collar, but you could easily make it straight, which would actually make it easier to sew the zipper in.
The next step is the zipper. I decided to use some of my reflective piping at the zipper opening. First, I tried pinning it in the opening, but soon became frustrated and dissatisfied, because the piping was uneven. I also realized that pinning the zipper in was going to be really challenging, because I wouldn’t be able to baste the piping in.
My solution was to baste the piping to the zipper tape. This allowed me to ensure that the piping was straight to the zipper teeth, and it worked like a charm.
Here’s the finished zipper. You can purchase zippers with reflective edges like this, but Dressew didn’t have any, so I made my own! I think that reflective elements on rainwear is extremely important, especially as the days get shorter. I am thinking about putting a reflective strip along either side of my front zipper as well. The piping is from Peak Fabrics, and it’s a flat piping. If you wanted a corded piping, you could easily thread cording through the piping using a darning needle. I like the reduced bulk of the flat piping, however. My fabric isn’t that stiff, but if I’m putting piping on my zippers, the last thing I need is to make my already stiff outerwear zippers even stiffer by adding piping with cording to them. I couldn’t find any closed-end zippers in the right length to match my separating zipper for the front of the jacket, so I had to use a separating zipper for my hood.
The next step is to sew the zipper into the opening. Again, Tasia’s sewalong instructions are very helpful if you’ve never done a zipper like this before. I carefully pressed the opening, making sure that the lining wasn’t peeking out, then started pinning. The trouble was, the zipper is straight, and adding the piping made it less flexible, so I took out the pins and lined everything up on my machine and winged it. I guess I like to live dangerously, with my unforgiving fabric! It worked really well, and I’m satisfied with the results.
The final step for the hood and collar is to sew the hood into the collar zipper. Make sure that the right sides are both up when you stick the hood through. The raw edge of the hood will be on the inside of the collar. Also, make sure that the edge of the collar with the double notch at the center is the upper edge. The sewalong step for this can be found here.
That’s all for now! The next step will be the side seams, including pockets.
When last we left my Minoru jacket, I’d cut everything out and finished sewing and sealing my sleeve seams. I wasn’t able to get any sewing done on Wednesday, so I’m back at it today.
As I mentioned in my last post, I jumped ahead and sewed the exterior hood, but it’s not finished – I am lining my hood, so that’s where I’m picking up today. The hood isn’t meant to be lined, but I don’t want to leave my coated exterior fabric unlined, because it doesn’t feel nice on the inside. Therefore, I’m straying from the tutorial.
I sewed the center seam, topstitched and sealed it on Tuesday, and left it at that point. Today, I sewed the lining. The hood opening is meant to be sewn with a 1/2″ hem, folded over twice. I don’t need to do this, because I’m lining mine. I don’t want the lining to show on the edge, so I’m trimmed 1/2″ from the front of my lining. This gives me enough for a seam allowance, and for 1/2″ to be folded over inside of the hood. When I constructed my lining, I serged the raw edge, since Bemberg lining frays easily, and topstitched the seam allowance so that it doesn’t stick up and make the hood look wonky.
To sew the lining into the hood, you simply line up the front edges and sew a 5/8″ seam. I pressed it with a 1/2″ self-facing, with the hood turned in to ensure that the lining doesn’t show at the opening.
Because this fabric doesn’t hold a crease easily, I topstitched the front edge of the hood, catching the seam allowance, but not the lining. I can’t seal this stitching, but it is so close to the edge of the hood that it doesn’t really matter. The last thing you need to do before setting the lined hood aside is to baste the bottom edge. This will make sewing the hood into the collar easier. Once the hood is done, set it aside until after your collar zipper is completed. The hood will be sewn into the collar, where it can be rolled up and stowed when you don’t need it.
The other step I completed today was running gathering threads along the top of the jacket. The pattern instructions don’t specify where to do so, which was frustrating, but the sewalong clarified this step. There are circular markings on the fronts and back of the jacket – this is where you start and stop the gathering stitches. Because I was concerned about regular sewing thread breaking when I pull the gathers (since my fabric is a bit grabby thanks to the rubbery coating), I used heavy duty thread for the gathering stitches. Always run two rows of gathering stitches, as I’ve done here – it ensures that your gathers sit straight when you sew the seam, as well as giving you an extra thread to pull in the event that your thread DOES break while pulling your gathers.
Here goes something! The pattern, and sewalong (which I’m using as instructions, since the pattern instructions aren’t all that detailed and lack clarity) say to sew the sleeves to the back first, so that’s what I did. I will be jumping around a little, but for the most part, I’m following the tutorial.
Remember when I said I was going to put my reflective piping on the sleeve seams? It’s not going to work, because the piping is cut on the straight grain, and doesn’t like to go around curves. Queue Hazel grumbling about spending money on notions she can’t even use. Such is life, not everything can go perfectly, right? That doesn’t mean I’m not using ANY of the piping though. It does, however, mean that I’m not using most of it. I am going to try to put piping along the edges of the collar, as well as the edges of the hood zipper. There’s really nowhere else to put piping, since this jacket doesn’t have back seams.I’m disappointed, but I don’t want to put the whole project on hold while I buy new piping.
As for the sewing, as you can see, I’ve carefully pinned inside my seam allowance. The nice thing about pinning like this is that you can sew with the pins in place, rather than having to take them out as you come to them, because the needle doesn’t have to go over the pins. I know some people sew over pins, but I’ve had too many bad experiences doing so. If you hit the pin just right, you end up with a mangled pin. If not, you dull your needle faster, or break it. I can’t afford to take chances with this jacket!
After sewing the seams, the sewalong says to top stitch the seam allowance toward the sleeve. I didn’t trim my seams until after topstitching, which made it easier, because I didn’t have to worry about trimming perfectly.
Once the topstitching was done, I took my jacket to the ironing board to apply the seam sealing tape. I’ve never used this product before, and unfortunately, there were no instructions included with it. I found this page, which was helpful, because it discusses the different types of seam sealing tape, and how to use each. My seam tape is transparent. Once I determined which side was the right side to lay on the fabric (the smooth, shiny side), I applied it to the seams. What a process! Because my seams are a bit curved, it meant doing it an inch or two at a time, so that I sealed all of the stitching. I ended up having to go over each seam with my iron several times, because some places didn’t fully seal the first time around, but I’m satisfied with how it all turned out.
Just don’t do what I did, and turn your iron up just a little bit, thinking that it’ll make the seam tape stick better. You’ll glue your pressing cloth to the seam tape, like I did. Now I need a new pressing cloth. Mine was getting a bit manky anyway, but it melted the waterproofing layer on the underside of the fabric as well. It’s all good in the end, because I swore a little, turned my iron down, and put a new piece of seam tape over top of the spot I melted. The fabric itself didn’t melt, so no real harm done. Lesson learned!
I don’t think I’ll be able to seam seal where the gathered parts of the jacket are, which is unfortunate. I don’t have any of the liquid seam sealer, and the tape simply isn’t going to work. I’ll see if I can pick up some of the liquid product next time I’m out, since I don’t need it immediately.
At this point, I’ve got the sleeves sewn to the front and back pieces, and the center of the hood sewn. All seams have been topstitched and sealed. That’s enough for today!
Since I’m satisfied with my muslin, aside from adding a little extra room in the bust, I went ahead and cut my fabrics today. The top fabric is the lovely teal Bemberg lining that I got at half price. I have extra, since I bought more than I needed, which is nice, because you never know when you are going to need lining. There’s enough left over to make another pencil skirt. The brown and black fabric on the bottom is my waterproof fabric, which I purchased from Peak Fabrics. It’s a two layer breatheable fabric, which means it won’t let moisture in, but it will let moisture out. As I mentioned previously, I bought the last of this fabric, and was worried about not having enough.
After walking the dog, I made a pot of coffee and started laying things out. I started with the lining, because honestly, pinning into my waterproof fabric made me a little anxious. There’s no room for error when you’re working with waterproof fabric, because every hole you make in the fabric is a place that will let water in, which defeats the purpose of sewing with this type of fabric!
Once my lining was cut out, I laid out my outer shell pieces. Surprisingly, I have quite a decent amount leftover. Not enough to make another garment, but enough that I could have been a bit more generous with my layout.
As you can see in the photo, I pinned very close to the edges of the pattern pieces. This pattern is sewn with a 5/8″ seam allowance, so I pinned within the seam allowance to make sure that I didn’t make any holes in the exposed fabric. When I sew, I will have to keep this in mind. It will make pinning the gathers rather challenging, but I’ll get through it.
I decided not to make welt pockets on my jacket. Why? Because of the waistband elastic. I would have had to place the pockets uncomfortably low in order to make the welt pockets look nice, since I didn’t want them in the gathers of the waist elastic. I am going to skip the zippers on the pockets, because I’m making them nice and deep, and I can put my keys in the inside pocket, so they won’t get lost.
The only pieces I haven’t cut out yet are the casing for the elastic and the inside flap to keep rain from coming through the zipper. I’m going to use the facing piece to cut it, since it will give me the right length, but I haven’t worked out how wide I need it to be yet. The elastic casing will be cut out of nylon mesh lining, which I’m also using for my pockets. This will reduce bulk at the waist. I could use the lining fabric, but I think the mesh will be easier to work with.
I needed a skirt for a job interview recently. I do have a couple of nice skirts that I quite like, but I’ve put on some weight, and they don’t fit. I went shopping, but unfortunately, I’m very averse to spending $70 on a plain straight black skirt! I was completely shocked by how much they want for something so basic. If it costs that much, shouldn’t it make all of my lumps and bumps disappear?
I decided that rather than buy a skirt that costs far more than it is worth, I’d go out and get some good quality fabric and make a skirt that costs less and fits better than an off the rack skirt. I found some wonderful wool crepe suiting at Fabricland in the clearance section, so it worked out to be only $6 per meter. Not only that, but Bemberg lining was half price that day, so I treated myself. Bemberg is worth the price tag – it’s nicer to work with than nylon, and is more comfortable to wear.
I didn’t have a pattern in my stash, since I decided that a pencil skirt would be just the thing, so I went online and found a really nice, simple pattern with an invisible side zipper and a nice inverted box pleat at the back, rather than a traditional kick pleat. Want to check out the pattern? Click here!
After an afternoon of sewing, this is what I ended up with. It’s hard to take full length pictures of yourself in an apartment, so forgive me for cutting off my legs and head. Oh, and my left elbow, too.
I know it’s not all that thrilling. Mostly because it is just a plain, black pencil skirt… and yes, it’s a bit on the small side. I tried it on, and found it too big, so I took it in. Maybe a little more than I should have. See all of the pretty drag lines across the hips? Yup. Too small. Oh well. It’s comfortable, and doesn’t make me look matronly like the $70 skirt I almost settled on at the mall. I promise, the next one I make (and there will be another one) will be the correct size. I have some nice black cotton sateen with big red poppies on it, which would be amazing sewn up into a pencil skirt.
I decided that just having one interview skirt was insufficient, but my wardrobe is somewhat limited at the moment, so I decided to make yet another black skirt, but in a different style. Again, I turned to indie pattern designers. I thought that the skirt on the Sewaholic Cambie would make a fantastic skirt, so I printed off my pattern, and cut out the necessary pieces to just make the skirt.
I made this skirt a size smaller than my usual Sewaholic size, because it’s made for a pear shaped figure, and I didn’t want it to be huge in the hips. Well guess what? I could have gone down another size smaller than I did, because it is still a bit big in the hips. It’s very comfortable though. I used the existing waistband piece, and simply folded it over. Yes, it’s a very narrow waistband, but I usually wear this skirt with one of my Oakridgeblouses (my favourite is the teal one) and it covers the waistband. I have plans for more Oakridge blouses, since they’re so very wearable.
I still have at least three meters of the wool suiting, so I’m saving it to make a pair of pants. I already purchased a pattern – since the Sewaholic Thurlow trouser pattern isn’t appropriate for my body shape, I decided on the Collette Juniper trousers. I like the wide waistband on these pants, and the leg shape.
Eventually, I will have a pretty fantastic wardrobe. I’d rather build my wardrobe out of handmade items instead of storebought, because for the most part, the fit is better (unless I make assumptions and rush through things, as I did with these two skirts) and the price is lower. It’s more of an investment in terms of time and effort, but I think it is worthwhile.
You may ask why I’m sharing these skirts if they’re imperfect, but that’s actually part of the reason I’m sharing them. Not every project is going to work out 100% perfectly. There will be flaws in either fit, or fabric choice, or maybe the style just won’t suit you. When you sew, you can’t return it if you don’t like the finished item. It’s a risk you take, but I don’t mind taking that risk, because of the sense of satisfaction I get from making things myself.
Sunday was muslin day! Exciting, right? Maybe not, but making a muslin is an important step, especially when you’re using fabric that is expensive, hard to come by, or leaves no room for error! Tasia at Sewaholic made a great blog post about making a muslin for this pattern, and it might be interesting to give it a read.
As for my muslin, I needed to make almost no adjustments to the pattern, which surprised me. My measurements put me in a size 16 in the high bust and waist (I measured over top of my down underlayer, and loosely, so there’s some wiggle room in my measurements), and a 10 in the hips. Remember, Sewaholic patterns are made for a pear shaped figure, and I’m more hourglass shaped. This means I always have to grade down in the hips with their patterns. This is a bit of a disappointment for me, because I’d really love to sew the Thurlow trousers, but they’d be a nightmare to adjust.
Anyway, once I worked out my size, I looked at the finished measurements and saw that there’s much more wearing ease in this jacket than I had expected. Even in the sleeves! My arms are about 13″ at the bicep, and the sleeves measured 18″ at the armpit, so I’ll have plenty of room. My full bust is 43″, and the bust of the size 16 is 47″. Again, plenty of room. No sleeve adjustment! No FBA? I’m shocked, actually, but this makes the jacket so much easier for me, so I’m certainly not going to complain!
I cut out the size 16, and graded down to a 12, because I wanted it a bit bigger around at the bottom, and I generally don’t like grading down that many sizes. Then I hunted through my stash for sacrificial fabric, and found two lengths of coordinating pink quilting cotton that I had purchased to make knitting bags and never used.
Here’s the end result. Yes, the muslin looks ridiculous, but I didn’t plan on making a wearable muslin, so I don’t care. I only cut the outside pieces, since I’m not worried about the fit of the hood, and didn’t need to bother with the finishing touches.
As you can see, the bust fits fine, but I think I’ll add another 1/2″, just to be safe. There’s plenty of room in the sleeves. The waist is a bit large, but that’s likely because I didn’t have 2″ wide elastic, which is what the pattern calls for.
The sleeves are about 1.5″ too long, so I will have to adjust the sleeve length, but otherwise, the fit is good. I may end up using a shorter piece of elastic, because the recommended length for my size doesn’t draw the jacket in enough at the waist. The placement is perfect, however. I tried the jacket with my puffy down underlayer, and it fits well with the down, so I’m ready to go forward with cutting this size, once I adjust the sleeve length.
I have yet to determine my pocket placement, but I’m hoping to make welt pockets like I had on my last rain jacket, which I handed down to my daughter since it doesn’t fit me properly anymore. I prefer zippered pockets on jackets, because I’d hate to lose my keys while walking the dog! I may get lazy, however, and just do side seam pockets using this tutorial. It should be fairly easy to add zippers, but my preference would be welt pockets. They’re fairly simple to do, it’s just the placement and angle that are a bit of a challenge.
There are a couple of things I’m going to change… I’m not a big fan of the way the waist elastic casing is sewn, especially since I’m making a waterproof jacket. I will sew an actual casing, rather than through the lining of the jacket. This way I can seam seal the casing, and stay dry. I’m also going to line the hood. As I mentioned previously, I’ll be adding piping along the raglan shoulder seams, as well as down the centre of the hood.
The only places that I can see seam tape being necessary are on the hood and on the raglan sleeve seams, as well as the underarm seams. The gathers at the collar won’t work with seam tape, so I will use liquid seam sealant.
My zipper facing will go on the inside of the jacket, though it will depend very much on how much fabric I have left after cutting everything out. I am cutting it pretty close on my yardage, so it is possible that I won’t have enough for a facing.
I do have one complaint though. Usually, Sewaholic has excellent, very detailed instructions, but this pattern is lacking in that department. The instructions for the collar are unclear, and if you’re doing view B (without the hood), there are no instructions at all. They do have a sewalong on the blog, but without reading through all of the posts, the collar instructions wouldn’t have been clear. Not everyone thinks to look for sewalongs, so the written instructions that come with the pattern really ought to be more detailed than they are.
I bought the zippers and elastic that I need today, since Fabricland didn’t have what I needed. I’ll be cutting out my jacket shortly.